Bulgogi (Korean BBQ Beef)

Prepare the marinade. Combine the grated pear, pureed onion, soy sauce, brown sugar, rice wine, garlic, ginger, sesame oil, sesame seeds, and black pepper in a large bowl. Stir until the sugar dissolves. The mixture should smell deeply fragrant, sweet and toasty from the sesame.

Marinate the beef. If using pre-sliced meat from a Korean market, separate the slices and pat off excess moisture with paper towels. Add the beef, sliced onion, scallions, and carrot to the marinade. Toss gently to coat every piece. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight for deeper flavor. If slicing beef at home, freeze it for about 1 hour until firm, then cut against the grain into 1/8-inch-thick slices.

Heat the cooking surface. Preheat a charcoal grill, gas grill, or cast iron skillet over medium-high to high heat. The surface should be very hot before any meat touches it. If using a skillet, add 1 tablespoon of cooking oil and let it shimmer.

Cook the bulgogi. For grilled bulgogi, arrange the meat in a single layer on the grate or grill pan and cook for 1 to 2 minutes per side, until the edges caramelize and turn golden brown. For pan-fried bulgogi, cook in small batches so the pan stays hot. Overcrowding the pan will steam the meat instead of searing it. The meat is thin, so it cooks quickly. When the edges turn deeply golden and the aroma fills the kitchen, the bulgogi is ready.

Serve immediately. Transfer to a warm platter and sprinkle with additional sesame seeds. Set out lettuce leaves, ssamjang, steamed rice, sliced garlic, and banchan. Each person wraps a piece of meat in a leaf, adds condiments, and eats the bundle in one bite.