Onigiri (Japanese Rice Balls)

Rinse the rice in a bowl of cold water, swirling gently with your hand. Drain and repeat three or four times until the water runs mostly clear. This removes surface starch that would make the onigiri gummy rather than tender.

Combine the rinsed rice and 480 ml water in a rice cooker or a heavy-bottomed pot with a tight lid. Let it soak for 20 to 30 minutes. If using a rice cooker, start the cycle. If using a pot, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce to the lowest setting, cover, and cook for 12 to 13 minutes. Remove from the heat and let it steam, still covered, for 10 minutes. Fluff with a rice paddle or fork. The grains should be glossy, slightly sticky, and tender all the way through. ### Prepare the fillings

For the salted salmon, place the fillet skin-side down on a lined baking sheet and sprinkle both sides generously with salt. Broil or bake at 220 C (425 F) for 10 to 15 minutes until the surface is dry and the flesh flakes apart easily when pressed with a fork. Break into rough flakes, discarding skin and any bones. Set aside.

For the okaka filling, place the katsuobushi in a small bowl and stir in the soy sauce. The flakes should be evenly moistened but not drenched, with just enough soy sauce to darken them slightly.

For the tuna mayo, combine the drained tuna, mayonnaise, and soy sauce in a small bowl. Stir until evenly mixed.

For the umeboshi, pit the plums and tear the flesh into small pieces, roughly the size of a thumbnail. Place on a small plate. ### Shape the onigiri by hand

Fill a small bowl with water and have your salt nearby. Wet both palms thoroughly, then spread a small pinch of salt (about a two-finger pinch) across your hands. The water prevents the rice from sticking; the salt seasons the surface.

Scoop about 100 to 120 g of warm rice (roughly a loosely packed handful) onto your non-dominant hand. The rice should still be quite warm but not so hot that it burns. If it is too hot to hold comfortably, let it cool for another few minutes.

Use your thumb to press a shallow well into the center of the rice. Place about 1 teaspoon of your chosen filling into the well.

Gently fold the rice around the filling so it is fully enclosed. Cup the rice between both hands and press lightly to compact it into a rough ball. You want firm enough pressure that the ball holds together, but not so much that the rice becomes dense and heavy. The grains should still feel distinct under your fingers.

To form the triangle, curve your dominant hand into an arched "roof" shape over the top of the rice ball. At the same time, press the sides inward with the base of your other hand. Rotate the ball about a third of a turn and repeat the press. After three rotations, the rice should have three distinct corners and three relatively flat sides. Give it one or two more gentle rotations to even out the shape. Each side should be about 2 cm thick.

Place the shaped onigiri on a tray lined with parchment paper. Wet and salt your hands again before shaping the next one. Repeat with the remaining rice and fillings. ### Wrap with nori

Toast each nori sheet briefly by passing it over an open flame or holding it a few centimetres above a hot burner for two or three seconds per side. The nori should tighten slightly and become more fragrant. Cut each sheet into three equal strips along the grain lines.

Wrap a strip of nori around the base of each onigiri, pressing gently so it adheres to the rice. If you prefer crisp nori, wrap just before eating and store the nori strips separately in an airtight container.

To identify the fillings, place a small pinch of each filling on top of the onigiri at the peak of the triangle. ### Using a mold (alternative)

If using an onigiri mold, wet the mold and lid first. Sprinkle a small pinch of salt inside. Fill halfway with rice, add a teaspoon of filling, then cover with more rice. Press the lid down firmly, flip the mold, and release. Wrap with nori as described above.