Roganjosh

Smoke the mustard oil. Pour the mustard oil (200 ml) into a wide, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven. Heat over high heat until the oil begins to smoke visibly — you will see a faint haze rise from the surface. This is the smoking point. Hold it there for 30 seconds, then remove from heat and allow to cool for 3–4 minutes. This process removes the raw pungency from the mustard oil and transforms its flavor.

Infuse ratan jot (if using). Return the cooled oil to medium heat. If using ratan jot, add the small piece now and let it infuse for 1–2 minutes until the oil turns a deep reddish-orange. Remove and discard the ratan jot before proceeding. This step is what gives the most traditional Roganjosh its distinctive color depth.

Bloom the whole spices. Add the cloves (5 g), black cardamom, cinnamon, and bay leaves (2 g) to the oil. Let them sizzle and bloom for 60–90 seconds until fragrant. The black cardamom will puff slightly.

Sear the lamb. Increase heat to high. Add the lamb pieces in a single layer (work in batches if needed). Sear without moving for 3–4 minutes per side until deeply browned. Good browning here builds flavor that carries through the entire dish. Season with salt during searing.

Add the spice powders. Reduce heat to medium. Add the dried ginger powder (10 g), fennel powder (5 g), and Kashmiri red chilli powder (20 g) directly to the lamb and fat in the pot. Stir continuously for 2 minutes, coating the meat thoroughly. The mixture will be dry and fragrant. The chilli powder will begin to deepen the color of everything it touches.

Add yogurt. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add the whisked yogurt, one large spoonful at a time, stirring vigorously after each addition to incorporate it into the spiced fat before adding the next. Do not add the yogurt all at once or it will curdle in the hot oil. Stir continuously until all the yogurt is incorporated and the sauce looks cohesive and glossy, approximately 5 minutes.

Slow cook. Add 200ml water. Stir to combine. Bring to a gentle simmer, then reduce heat to the lowest setting. Cover and cook for 1 to 1.5 hours, checking every 20 minutes and adding a splash of water if the sauce reduces too quickly. The lamb is ready when it is completely tender and pulls easily from the bone, and the gravy has thickened to a deep, glossy red.

Finish. Remove the lid, increase heat to medium, and simmer uncovered for 3–4 minutes to tighten the sauce if needed. Add the garam masala (5 g), stir through, and cook for a final 2 minutes. Taste and adjust salt. Remove bay leaves and cinnamon stick before serving.