Kansas City Burnt Ends

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and cook them until they're tender, four to five minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one minute longer. Add the ketchup, brown sugar, molasses, apple cider vinegar, yellow mustard, chili powder, salt, black pepper and cayenne and bring the sauce to a boil. Reduce the heat to a low simmer. Cook the sauce, stirring occasionally, until the flavors have melded, 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer it to a bowl, cover it and refrigerate it.

In a medium bowl, combine the black pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, kosher salt, paprika, chili powder and brown sugar. Preheat a smoker to 225°F, preparing it for indirect heat with a drip pan. Add wood chips or pellets to the smoker according to the manufacturer's directions. Brush the mustard over both sides of the beef, then rub it with the spice rub mixture.

Place the brisket over the drip pan (fat-side up) and smoke it, covered, over indirect medium heat until a thermometer inserted in the beef reads 165° and a dark bark has formed, about eight hours. Wrap the brisket securely in unwaxed butcher paper and smoke it until a thermometer inserted into the center reads 202° and the meat is very tender, two to three more hours. Editor's Tip: While temperature is a very reliable indicator of doneness (make sure you have a meat thermometer), you can also judge a brisket by how easily a thermometer slides in and out of the meat. Properly cooked, a thermometer should meet very little resistance and be removed easily, like a softened stick of butter.

Increase the smoker temperature to 275°. Cut the brisket into 1-1/2-inch cubes. Place half of the prepared sauce in the bottom of a foil pan. Add the cubed brisket and toss to coat it in the sauce.

Place the foil pan on the smoker. Smoke the brisket for 1 hour to 1 hour and 30 minutes longer, tossing occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and the brisket cubes are deep maroon and lightly charred. Serve the burnt ends with the remaining sauce.