Seafood Gumbo

To make roux: In a heavy-duty Dutch oven, turn heat to medium and add butter. When butter is fully melted, sprinkle in flour and whisk well to eliminate lumps. Turn heat down to low and whisk for about 1 hour. Don't put the whisk down until roux has reached a dark reddish brown or almost the color of coffee. When roux is ready, turn off the heat and cool immediately. Roux can be made a week in advance and kept in the refrigerator.

To make gumbo: In a heavy-duty Dutch oven, heat the prepared roux over medium heat. When the roux is hot, add the ham and sauté for about 3 minutes. Next, add onions and sauté another 2 minutes. Add celery and green bell pepper and stir for 1 minute.

Next, add the garlic followed by tomatoes, tomato paste and okra. Slowly add the stock to the mixture, stirring constantly. Bring to a simmer and add cayenne, salt and herbs. Simmer for about 30 minutes, taste and adjust seasonings, if needed.

A few minutes before serving, add the seafood to the hot gumbo. Serve over a bowl of hot, long-grain rice. Sprinkle filé at the table, if desired.

Note: Tasso is a Cajun specialty made of richly seasoned cured and smoked lean pork. It is available at Chop, 735 N.W. 21st Ave., 503-221-3012; and 3808 N. Williams Ave., 503-288-1901. Or substitute a good smoked ham and increase seasonings to taste.

Note: To make seafood stock, boil shrimp shells in 6 cups of water for 10 minutes to extract their flavor.