A Guide to Authentic Shoyu Ramen Noodles

Place the chicken carcass, onion, garlic, and ginger in a large stockpot. Cover with the 12 cups of cold water. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium-high heat, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Reduce heat to low, partially cover, and let it simmer very gently for 4-6 hours. Do not let it reach a rolling boil, as this will make the broth cloudy.

After simmering, strain the chicken broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean pot, discarding the solids. Add the kombu and dried shiitake to the warm broth. Let it steep off the heat for 1 hour. Remove and discard the kombu (it can get slimy). Bring the broth to a bare simmer, then turn off the heat and add the bonito flakes. Let them steep for 10 minutes, then strain again. This is your finished broth.

While the broth simmers, combine all tare ingredients (both soy sauces, mirin, sake, sugar) in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce heat to low and let it gently simmer for 10 minutes to cook off the alcohol and meld the flavors. Set aside. This tare is very concentrated.

Roll the pork belly into a tight log and secure with kitchen twine. In a pot just large enough to hold the pork, combine all chashu ingredients. Bring to a simmer, then add the pork roll. The liquid should come about halfway up the pork. Reduce heat to low, cover, and gently simmer for 2-3 hours, turning the pork every 30 minutes, until it's fork-tender. Let it cool in the braising liquid.

While the chashu cooks, make your ajitama by soft-boiling eggs (6-7 minutes), then marinating them in a mixture of the chashu braising liquid and water. Slice your scallions, prepare menma, and have nori ready. Once the chashu is cool, slice it thinly.

Bring a very large pot of unsalted water to a rolling boil. Cook your ramen noodles according to package directions, but usually for 1-2 minutes for a firm, chewy texture. While they cook, prepare your bowls. Add 3-4 tablespoons of the shoyu tare to each empty ramen bowl. Pour about 1.5 cups of the hot dashi broth over the tare and stir to combine.

Drain the noodles well, shaking off all excess water. Divide them among the bowls. Swiftly arrange your toppings: chashu slices, half an ajitama, menma, and scallions. Tuck a sheet of nori on the side. Add a final drizzle of aroma oil and serve immediately while piping hot.