Miso Soup

Put the wakame into a medium bowl and cover with hot water. Let it rehydrate until it unfurls and softens, about 5 minutes. Drain the wakame, rinse with cold water, and squeeze it dry using your hands. The wakame will expand quite a bit so chop it into bite-size pieces and set it aside until ready to use.

While the wakame is soaking, put the dried kelp and water into a 5 1/2-quart pot. Heat over medium heat until it’s just about to come to a simmer, 15 to 20 minutes. The kombu will have expanded quite a bit and the water should be pale yellow. Remove the kombu from the pot and discard it.

Add the bonito flakes to the pot and bring it to a boil. Remove the pot from the heat. The flakes will float in a soggy layer on top of the water. Let the flakes sink to the bottom of the pot and let them steep for 15 minutes.

Set a fine mesh strainer over a large bowl or an 8-cup glass measuring cup. Pour the dashi through the strainer. You should have what looks like a golden broth. Discard the bonito flakes and rinse out the strainer, you’ll use it again. Wipe any residue from the pot and return the dashi to the pot.

Bring the dashi to a simmer over medium heat. Submerge the strainer into the dashi. Add the miso to the strainer submerged in the dashi and whisk to dissolve. Do not let the soup come to a boil. You can scrape the little bits of soybeans from the miso into the soup if you want. Alternatively, you can dissolve the miso with a fork in a small bowl or cup of the dashi and then pour it all back into the pot.

Add the tofu and wakame to the soup and let them warm through, about 3 minutes. Drizzle the soup with sesame oil and garnish with scallions and togarashi.

Ladle the miso into bowls. Serve with the rice.