Classic Crispy Rolled Tacos (AKA Flautas or Taquitos) with everything

Make the tacos. Scoop the filling into a bowl and season generously with salt. Feel free to add other seasonings if you wish–crumbled Mexican oregano, chopped cilantro, chopped hot green chile are good options. In a large (10-inch) skillet, heat the oil over medium until hot enough to make the edge of a tortilla sizzle sharply, about 350 deegrees. With tongs, pick up 3 tortillas at a time, slide them into the hot oil, wait a few seconds for them to sizzle sharply, then quickly remove, drain on paper towels and pat dry. When the tortillas are just cool enough to handle, roll about 2 tablespoons of filling tightly into each one, laying them seam-side down once they are rolled. On about 3-inch wooden picks, skewer 3 taquitos together, making sure that the flaps are held in place on the inside. Separate them a bit so all sides are exposed to oil.

Fry the tacos. Reheat the oil until it's hot enough to make the edge of a taco sizzle sharply, about 360 to 370 degrees, fry the skewered tacos in two batches, flipping after 1 ½ to 2 minutes, when the undersides are crispy. Drain on paper towels.

Serve. Line up the tacos on a platter. Drizzle them with the crema, then the salsa. Top with the lettuce, then strew with chopped cilantro, sliced radish and crumbled cheese.