Barbacoa

Smash the 4 cloves of garlic with the side of a cleaver or knife.

Place garlic in a blender with 1/4 cup water and puree until smooth; set aside.

Place meat, water, half of the pureed garlic (save the remaining half for the sauce mixture), the cheesecloth wrapped pickling spices and salt in a large stockpot and bring to a boil.

Skim off any foam that rises.

Reduce heat to low, and simmer one hour or until the meat is very tender, skimming off any foam as it comes to the surface.

Remove the meat from the pan and allow to cool enough to handle, then shred meat with your fingers or two forks.

Be sure to save 1 cup of the meat broth for the sauce mixture.

Prick chiles several times all over with a fork or small knife.

Roast chiles under direct heat (usually the broiler works nice), until they are blackened and charred.

Remove them from heat and place in a paper bag or in a bowl covered with plastic wrap for about 15 minutes.

When the skin on them has loosened and they are cool enough to handle, remove as much of the skin as you can, but don't worry too much if a few black bits remain (they just add flavor).

Remove the stem and seeds, and chop (you should get at least 1/2 cup total).

Preheat oven to 300F.

Heat the oil in a large skillet and cook the onion until tender.

Add the chopped chiles as well as the remaining garlic puree, vinegar, reserved meat broth, sliced jalapenos, jalapeno juice, and bay leaf.

Stir in the shredded meat, and the red chile sauce, black pepper, green olives, chopped tomatoes, and wine, mixing well, and simmer about 10 minutes.

Remove bay leaf.

Place the meat on a shallow baking sheet, cover with foil, and bake at 300F for 1 hour, mixing occasionally.

Serve in warmed tortillas, if desired.