Spam and Perilla Kimbap

In a medium bowl, add the rice and 1 tablespoon of the sesame oil, season with salt, and gently stir together with a plastic rice scooper or rubber spatula (to minimize sticking). You’ll notice the grains start to glisten and separate thanks to the nutty sesame oil. Set the seasoned rice aside to cool if it’s not already.

Grease a plate with a little sesame oil. Set a large, cold nonstick skillet on the stove, turn the heat to medium-high, and add the remaining 1 teaspoon sesame oil and the Spam, frying until caramelized at the edges, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the garlic powder and maple syrup, toss with the Spam pieces, and cook the syrup down, tossing and turning the Spam occasionally, until the syrup reduces and glazes the outsides with shiny amber and even some darker caramelized bits, about 1 minute. Set aside on the greased plate.

Lay one sheet of kimbap gim, shiny-side up, on a cutting board or clean counter in front of you, a shorter side closest to you. Spread ½ cup of the seasoned rice as evenly as you can across the entire surface area of the gim. (A plastic rice scooper is best for this—again, the sticking—but you can use any implement you like, keeping a small bowl of water nearby to wet your hands if things get sticky.)

About one-third up from the bottom, lay 6 perilla leaves (two stacks of 3) over the rice and top with 2 pieces of maple-candied Spam laterally across the perilla, creating a straight pink line.

Starting from the bottom, tightly roll the kimbap like a sleeping bag or cinnamon roll. Once rolled, use both hands to gently squeeze the roll even tighter together, compacting the rice, gim, Spam, and perilla into each other, fusing as one. With a very sharp knife, cut ¾-inch thick pieces. Repeat to make 3 more kimbaps.

These are at their best when eaten slightly warm, but also taste great at room temperature.