Classic Gelato and Variations

Place a large bowl in the refrigerator to chill.

Put the whole milk, evaporated milk, milk powder, 2 teaspoons of vanilla bean paste, and a pinch of salt in a medium saucepan. Add 1/4 cup of the sugar and bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Remove the mixture from the heat and set aside.

Put the remaining 1/2 cup of sugar and egg yolks in the bowl of a stand mixer and beat with the whisk attachment for 8 to 10 minutes, until thick and very light in color. It should fall in ribbons when the beater is lifted.

With the mixer running on medium-low speed, gradually pour the still-warm milk mixture into the egg mixture. Make sure the milk is not too hot, and take your time.

Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and heat gently over medium-low until it coats a spoon. Don't let it boil It should be slightly thickened, and the temperature will be around 175°F to 185°F.

Pour the custard mixture through a sieve into the chilled bowl. Taste and add another teaspoon of vanilla bean paste or extract, if desired.

Place a sheet of plastic wrap directly on top of the custard to prevent a skin from forming; cover the bowl with another sheet of plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours, until well-chilled.

Pour the chilled custard mixture into an ice cream maker and churn following the manufacturer's instructions.

Spoon the finished ice cream into a container, cover, and freeze until firm, about 2 to 3 hours.