The Best Matzo Ball Soup

In a large mixing bowl, combine eggs with seltzer and schmaltz or oil. In a small bowl, stir together matzo meal with baking powder (if using), 1 1/2 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients and stir to combine thoroughly. Refrigerate uncovered for 30 minutes until matzo absorbs all the liquid.

Meanwhile, divide stock evenly between two pots, season both with 1/2 teaspoon salt each, and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add diced carrot, celery, and dill sprigs to one pot and simmer until just tender, about 30 minutes; discard dill and cover to keep warm.

Using wet hands, and re-wetting hands as necessary, form matzo-ball mixture into 1- to 1 1/2–inch balls, and add to the simmering pot of stock without the carrots and celery. When all matzo balls have been added, cover and simmer until matzo balls have expanded and cooked through, about 40 minutes. Cooked matzo balls can be kept warm in their broth until ready to serve.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer matzo balls to serving bowls (you should have at least 3 per bowl); strain matzo-ball-cooking broth and save for another use. Ladle hot clear broth with carrots and celery into each bowl and garnish with dill fronds. Serve.