New England Clam Chowder

Working in batches if necessary, place clams in a medium saucepan with 1 3/4 cups water. Cover and bring to a boil. Uncover, stir, and continue to cook, removing clams as soon as they open (this way, none of them will overcook and turn too chewy).

Once they've all been removed, strain liquid through a sieve lined with a dampened cheesecloth to get rid of residual grit. You should have 3 cups broth; if you have less, add water or bottled clam broth. Gently separate clams from shells; discard shells and coarsely chop clams (halve if small).

Wash and dry saucepan; place over medium-high heat. Melt butter in pan, then add pancetta and cook, stirring, until browned on edges, about 2 minutes.

Add onion, thyme, and bay leaf. Cook until onion is translucent, about 3 minutes. Add wine and simmer, stirring, until almost evaporated, about 3 minutes.

Sprinkle mixture with flour and keep stirring, 30 seconds. Add potato and broth. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until potato is tender, about 10 minutes.

Stir in clams and cream, gently heating through, about 30 seconds. Remove and discard bay leaf. Season with salt and pepper, and serve with crackers.