Duncan Welgemoed’s peri peri chicken

For peri peri sauce, preheat the oven to 180C, place chillies in a roasting pan and roast until lightly coloured and softened (10-12 minutes). Cool, remove stalks, chop, then transfer to a saucepan with olive oil, vinegar, garlic, paprika, bay leaves and 1 tsp sea salt flakes, and simmer over medium heat to infuse (2-3 minutes). Cool, then process in a blender until smooth. Store in a sealed container at room temperature for flavours to meld (1-3 days). Shake well before using.

For brined chicken, bring ingredients except lemon and chicken to the boil in a large saucepan with 1 litre water, then set aside to cool completely (1½-2 hours). Add lemon and refrigerate to chill (1 hour). Place chicken in a large deep non-reactive container, pour in brine to cover completely, then refrigerate overnight.

Remove chicken from brine (discard brine) and rinse under cold running water, pat dry with paper towels and place in a bowl. Pour half the peri peri sauce over (reserve remaining to serve), coating chicken evenly, then refrigerate to marinate (6 hours or up to a day).

Prepare a charcoal or hardwood-fire barbecue until coals are white and ashed (1-1½ hours for hardwood, 30-45 minutes for charcoal; see note). Place chicken on grill, cover with a lid or upturned metal bowl and grill for 15 minutes or so each side, basting with excess marinade, until cooked through, throwing smoking chips onto the embers and closing the lid in the last 5 minutes of cooking (a metal skewer inserted for 20 seconds at the thickest part near the bone should feel hot when placed on your lower lip).

Serve chicken with reserved peri peri sauce, lemon cheeks and soft floured bread rolls or a green salad.