Gumbo

Prepare the roux: In a large pan or Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium. Add the flour, ¼ cup at a time, whisking, so there are no lumps. Continue to whisking (or stir with a wooden spoon) as the roux first foams, then gradually turns from white to a milk chocolate hue. (It will be blond, tan and a peanut butter hue in between.) This process can take 35 minutes to 1 hour, depending on the heat source and vessel. It’s important to continue stirring and scraping down the edges of the pan so the flour doesn't burn. Reduce the heat, if necessary.

Once the roux reaches the milk chocolate stage, remove it from the heat and let it cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally. The residual heat from the pot will get the roux to an even darker shade of brown. If not immediately using the roux, transfer it to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 1 week.

Prepare the gumbo: Heat a large (5 1/2-quart) Dutch oven over medium-high. Add the sausage and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, about 5 minutes. Transfer the sausage with a slotted spoon to a plate. Add 1 tablespoon of oil to the Dutch oven, then add the chicken, seasoning it with salt (about 2 teaspoons) and pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until it’s golden, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat if necessary. Transfer the chicken to the plate with the sausage.

Add the celery, onion and bell pepper. Season with salt (about 1 teaspoon) and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the roux, stirring until well combined. Reduce the heat to medium-low, being mindful not to burn the roux, and cook, stirring continuously, until the vegetables have softened, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the Cajun seasoning (start with 1 tablespoon), bay leaves and thyme.

Add the broth and increase the heat to high. Bring to a boil, stirring often to make sure nothing sticks to the bottom of the pot. Reduce to medium-low and gently simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour. Skim any excess oils that rise to the top.

Return the sausage and chicken to the Dutch oven. Simmer, occasionally stirring and scraping the bottom of the pot, for 30 minutes. Taste and adjust salt, Cajun spice and cayenne, if desired. (The gumbo should have just enough heat to make you take notice, but not so much as to overwhelm all the other flavors.) If preparing the gumbo ahead, remove from the heat now (see Tip). Stir in the okra and cook for 15 minutes. If the gumbo is too thick, add a little more broth, if needed. (Be mindful that the shrimp, added next, will also release liquid).

Stir in the shrimp and simmer until just cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Taste, adjust seasoning, if needed, and remove from the heat. If using filé, stir 2 to 3 teaspoons directly into the pot to reach desired thickness and seasoning; or have everyone sprinkle it on their own bowls. (Be mindful that a little goes a long way.) Serve gumbo in bowls with a side of white rice and top with scallions.