Buffalo Cauliflower

Heat oven to 400 degrees, and place a rack close to the broiler and another in the middle of the oven. (If your broiler is in a drawer below the oven, no need to move the racks.)

In a large bowl, toss the cauliflower with the oil to evenly coat, then season with salt and pepper. Spread out the cauliflower on a baking sheet in an even layer (arrange flat edges pan-side down for extra browning). Bake the cauliflower on the middle rack, stirring occasionally, until just tender, about 15 minutes.

As cauliflower roasts, make the sauce: Melt the butter with the hot sauce in a medium saucepan or skillet over low heat, and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Once melted, turn off the heat, but keep the saucepan on the stove.

Make the yogurt ranch (optional): Stir together all the ingredients in a small bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and set aside.

Pull the cauliflower out of the oven, and turn on the broiler. Transfer the cauliflower to the hot sauce-butter mixture, stirring the cauliflower to fully coat with the sauce. Then, using a slotted spoon, transfer the cauliflower back to the baking sheet in an even layer.

Broil until the cauliflower is singed in spots and cooked throughout, about 5 minutes. (Depending on your broiler, you may need to rotate the pan after 2 or 3 minutes for even cooking.) Serve with yogurt ranch for dipping or drizzling, if desired.