Spinach and Artichoke Dip with Crackers

Heat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Set a 25 cm (10 inch) cast-iron skillet on the stovetop or a sheet pan on the counter; the skillet will go straight from oven to table.

Squeeze the thawed 280 g (10 oz) chopped spinach in two clean dish towels. Pile the spinach in the center of the first towel, gather the corners, twist hard over the sink, then transfer to the second towel and twist again.

Drain the can of 400 g (14 oz) artichoke hearts thoroughly, then roughly chop them on a cutting board into pieces about 1 cm (? inch) across. Resist the urge to use a food processor; recognizable pieces are the goal.

In a large mixing bowl, stir together 225 g (8 oz) softened cream cheese, 120 g (½ cup) sour cream, and 120 g (½ cup) mayonnaise with a flexible spatula until smooth and uniform.

Stir in 3 finely grated garlic cloves, 15 ml (1 tablespoon) lemon juice, ½ teaspoon fine sea salt, ¼ teaspoon black pepper, and a pinch of red pepper flakes if using. Taste and adjust; the base should read tangy and well-salted before you add the spinach.

Fold in the dried spinach, chopped artichoke hearts, 170 g (1½ cups) of the mozzarella, and 45 g (heaping ? cup) of the parmigiano-reggiano. Fold gently; you want the spinach and artichoke distributed evenly, not pulverized.

Transfer the dip to the cast-iron skillet and spread it evenly with a spatula. Scatter the remaining 55 g (½ cup) mozzarella across the surface.

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining 15 g (2 tablespoons) parmigiano-reggiano, 30 g (¼ cup) panko, and 15 g (1 tablespoon) melted butter. Sprinkle the panko mixture evenly over the dip, paying attention to the edges where the crust will be deepest.

Bake on the center rack for 20 minutes, until the edges are bubbling and the top is beginning to color.

Let the dip rest for 5 minutes off heat. Set the skillet on a wood board, surround it with water crackers, toasted baguette slices, and pita chips, and serve while it's still hot enough to pull a thread of cheese.