Pho (Vietnamese Noodle Soup)

To make the garnish for northern-style pho, brine the sliced garlic by combining it with 1 cup water and 3 teaspoons salt in a small bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight, then drain it. In a small jar, combine the brined garlic and vinegar. Heat the remaining 1 cup water until it's hot, then add it to the jar. Stir in the sugar, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt and the chiles. Cover and let it stand at room temperature overnight.

In a large saucepan, cover the beef bones with 2 liters of water. Add 2 tablespoons salt and the cider vinegar. In another large saucepan, cover the sirloin steak and brisket with the remaining 1 liter of water, the remaining 2 tablespoons salt, the wine and sliced ginger. Cover both saucepans and refrigerate them for two hours. Drain, and discard the ginger from the boneless meat.

Add enough cold water to each saucepan to cover the bones and meat. Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil for three minutes, then drain both saucepans. Rinse the bones and boneless beef under cold water.

Simmer the broth

Preheat the oven to 425°F. In a stockpot, cover the bones and boneless beef with enough cold water to cover them completely (about 5 liters). Bring the water to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer the meat, uncovered, occasionally skimming and discarding any foam that rises to the top. Simmer until the foam starts to collect more slowly, about 30 minutes. Editor's Tip: Using a small mesh strainer is the easiest way to skim the foam from the broth.

Meanwhile, arrange the whole onion and ginger on an ungreased baking sheet. Roast them until they're slightly charred, 10 to 15 minutes, turning occasionally. Remove and discard the charred skins. Set the roasted onions and ginger aside. In a dry small skillet, toast the cinnamon sticks, anise, cardamom pods and coriander over medium heat until they're aromatic, one to two minutes, stirring frequently. Allow the spices to cool. Place the cooled spices on a double thickness of cheesecloth. Gather the corners of the cloth to enclose the spices, and tie the bundle securely with string.

Once the foam is no longer collecting on the surface of the broth, add the roasted onion, ginger and spice bag to the stockpot. Stir in the salt, MSG (if using) and rock sugar. Simmer, uncovered, until the beef is tender, about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

With tongs, transfer the beef to a large bowl, and allow it to cool slightly. Wrap the beef tightly in foil and refrigerate it.

Continue simmering the broth, uncovered, until it's light golden brown and fragrant, two to five hours. Stir occasionally and remove any foam that collects on the surface. Editor's Tip: The longer it simmers, the more concentrated the broth. The liquid level will reduce, and it's OK if the bones aren't entirely covered by the end of the simmering time. Before serving, season the broth to taste with salt or fish sauce.

Cook the banh pho rice noodles according to the package directions, and set them aside. Remove the beef from the refrigerator, and thinly slice it against the grain. For each serving, add an individual portion of noodles and beef to a small colander. Lower the colander into the simmering broth until the beef and noodles are heated through. Add the warm beef and noodles to a serving bowl. Top with additional broth, about 1 cup per bowl. Serve with garnishes as desired.