Arepas — Griddled Corn Cakes from Venezuela and Colombia

Pour the warm water into a wide bowl and stir in the salt until it dissolves. Add the oil if you're using it.

Rain the masarepa into the water with one hand while stirring with the other — flour into water, never water into flour. Keep going until it's all in, then switch to your hand and mix until there are no dry lumps.

Let the dough stand for 5 minutes, then knead it in the bowl for a minute or two with wet hands. It should feel like soft, smooth playdough — pliable, faintly tacky, holding a fingerprint without sticking. If it cracks when you press it, work in another tablespoon of warm water; if it smears on your palm, sprinkle in a little more masarepa.

Divide the dough into 8 equal pieces (about 110 g each). Roll each into a ball between wet palms, then flatten it into a disc roughly 9 cm across and 2 cm thick. Run a wet fingertip around the edge to seal any cracks smooth.

Heat the oven to 180°C / 350°F. Set a heavy frying pan, cast-iron griddle or budare over medium heat and film it with oil. Cook the arepas in batches, 4–5 minutes a side, until a firm golden crust has formed and they release from the pan without sticking.

Transfer the browned arepas to a baking tray and bake for 15–20 minutes, until they sound hollow when you tap them and feel light for their size.

Rest the arepas 5 minutes, then split each one horizontally with a serrated knife, cutting about three-quarters of the way through so it stays hinged like a pocket. If the inside is very soft, pull out a little of the crumb with a spoon.

For reina pepiada: mash half the avocado with the mayonnaise and lime juice until creamy, then fold through the shredded chicken, the remaining avocado cut into 1 cm dice, the coriander and the peas if using. Season with salt and more lime until it tastes bright rather than rich.

Pack the filling generously into the hot arepas and eat immediately, over a plate.