Perfect Sushi Rice

Put 310 grams Japanese short-grain rice in a sieve over a bowl and rinse it with cold tap water.

Use your hands to remove the excess starch from each grain by using a gentle rubbing motion.

When the water that runs off is mostly clear, drain the rice.

If you're using a rice cooker, add the washed rice to the cooker's bowl and add cold water to just under the 2-cup line. If you're using the stove, add the washed rice to a small heavy-bottomed non-stick pot, then add 1 1/2 cups cold water and cover it with a lid.

Let this soak for at least 30 minutes before you start cooking it. This allows the grains to soak up water before cooking, resulting in shinier rice with a better texture.

If you use a rice cooker, turn it on and let it do its thing. If you are doing this on the stovetop, turn the heat to high and bring the water to a boil (be careful not to let it boil over). Turn down the heat to low and set a timer for 15 minutes. Once no liquid remains in the pot, turn off the heat and let the rice steam for 10 minutes.

While you wait, combine 4 tablespoons rice vinegar, 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, and 1 teaspoon salt in a small bowl. You can microwave it for a bit to help dissolve the sugar.

When the rice is done, dump it into a large bowl or sushi oke (the wooden bowl in the photo). The key is that you want a container with a lot of surface area to spread the rice out to cool it rapidly. Gently break up any clumps, then pour the vinegar mixture evenly over the hot rice.

Use a shamoji (rice paddle), spatula, or a flat wooden spoon to gently combine the rice and vinegar using a side-to-side cutting motion followed by a folding motion. You want to separate each grain so seasoned vinegar coats every surface, but you don't want to break the rice grains or mash them together.

While mixing, use a fan or a clean hairdryer set to cool and blow air on the rice. This cools the sushimeshi and helps the excess liquid evaporate quickly, giving it a nice sheen while keeping it from getting mushy. It's a bit tricky mixing and fanning simultaneously, so a second set of hands can be helpful here.

The sushi rice is done when the surface is no longer wet and slippery, and each grain is shiny. It will still be lukewarm, but it should not be hot.

Mound up the sushimeshi and cover it with a damp towel until you're ready to use it.