Classic: Chana Masala

Heat the oil or ghee in a large skillet or kadhai over medium heat. Add the diced onion and cook for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally, until deep golden brown. Do not rush this — the caramelized onion is the flavor foundation of the entire dish.

Add the garlic, ginger, and green chilies. Cook for 1 minute until fragrant.

Add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, chili powder, and asafoetida. Stir for 30 seconds to toast the spices in the oil.

Pour in the crushed tomatoes. Cook over medium heat for 8-10 minutes, stirring frequently, until the mixture has thickened and the oil begins to separate from the tomato paste at the edges. This is called bhuno — cooking until the masala releases its oil — and it is the indicator that the raw flavors have been cooked out.

Add the chickpeas, salt, and water. Stir to coat the chickpeas thoroughly in the masala. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes, partially covered, until the sauce has thickened and clings to the chickpeas.

Using the back of a wooden spoon or a potato masher, gently crush about a quarter of the chickpeas against the side of the pan. This releases starch and thickens the gravy naturally.

Stir in the garam masala, amchur powder, and lemon juice. Cook for 2 more minutes. Taste and adjust salt and tang — it should be distinctly tangy and earthy.

Garnish with cilantro. Serve with steamed rice, or more traditionally, with fried bhatura bread or puri, along with sliced raw onion and lemon wedges.