Classic: Gumbo

Make the roux: heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat. Whisk in the flour until smooth. Cook, whisking or stirring constantly, for 35-45 minutes. The roux will progress from white to blond to peanut butter brown to a deep chocolate brown. It should smell like toasted nuts, not burnt. If you see any black specks, the roux has burned and you must start over.

Immediately add the onion, bell pepper, and celery to the dark roux — the vegetables will stop the cooking and sizzle vigorously. Stir constantly for 5-6 minutes as the vegetables soften in the residual heat.

Add the garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Gradually ladle in the chicken stock while stirring, incorporating it smoothly into the roux. It will thicken and then loosen as you add more stock.

Add the diced tomatoes, bay leaves, Cajun seasoning, thyme, and cayenne. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

In a separate skillet, brown the andouille and chicken pieces. Add them to the pot. Simmer for 45 minutes, partially covered, stirring occasionally.

Add the okra and cook for another 15 minutes until tender. Add the shrimp in the last 5 minutes of cooking — they need only enough time to turn pink and curl.

Remove the bay leaves. Stir in the file powder off the heat if using (do not boil after adding file, as it becomes stringy). Taste and adjust salt, pepper, and cayenne.

Serve ladled over mounds of hot white rice in deep bowls, garnished with scallions.