Best Italian Tiramisu

For the mascarpone cream: Whisk the mascarpone in a medium bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed for 30 to 60 seconds until creamy. Scrape the sides of the bowl and set aside.

If using the heavy cream (recommended), to a medium heatproof bowl, add the egg yolks and sugar. Bring 1 to 2 inches of water to a boil in a medium pot and reduce the heat to low. Place the bowl over the pot of water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Heat, whisking the egg yolk mixture on medium-high speed, until light and fluffy, for exactly 2 minutes. Do not overmix or overheat as it can become grainy. Remove from the heat.

Add the egg yolk mixture to the whipped mascarpone. Add the vanilla and salt, then whisk on medium speed, scraping the bowl halfway, until just combined (do not overmix as the mixture can become grainy).

In a separate bowl, whip the heavy cream until it reaches medium stiff peaks (it just begins to hold its shape). Do not overmix. Add the whipped cream to the mascarpone mixture in 2 to 3 additions, folding gently with a rubber spatula and taking care not to knock out the air. You will have a creamy, light mixture.

If using the egg whites for the mascarpone cream instead of the heavy cream, in a separate heatproof bowl, add the egg yolks and 1/3 cup of the sugar. Bring 1 to 2 inches of water to a boil in a medium pot and reduce the heat to low. Place the bowl over the pot of water, making sure the bottom of the bowl doesn’t touch the water. Heat, whisking the egg yolk mixture on medium-high speed, until light and fluffy, for exactly 2 minutes. Do not overmix or overheat as it can become grainy. Remove from the heat.

Add the egg yolk mixture to the whipped mascarpone. Add the vanilla and salt, then whisk on medium speed, scraping the bowl halfway, until just combined (do not overmix as the mixture can become grainy).

In a separate clean bowl, add the egg whites and remaining 1/3 cup sugar and place over the pot of boiling water. Heat, whisking on medium-high speed with a clean whisk, until the mixture reaches 160 degrees F, 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and keep beating until a glossy, stiff meringue forms.

Add the meringue to the mascarpone mixture in 2 to 3 additions, folding gently with a rubber spatula and taking care not to knock out the air. You will have an airy, light mixture.

For the assembly and serving: Pour the coffee into a wide bowl. Dip each ladyfinger quickly into the coffee (I do a quick dip on each side) and add to the bottom of an 8-by-9.5-inch rectangular dish (see Cook’s Note) to form a layer (you’ll use about half of the ladyfingers). Evenly spread with half of the mascarpone cream. Repeat with another layer of soaked ladyfingers. Top with the remaining mascarpone cream. Cover and refrigerate for at least 6 hours and (ideally) up to overnight.

When ready to serve, sift the cocoa powder evenly on top of the tiramisu. Cut into slices and serve.